Cabeza Prieta means "Dark Head" in Spanish, and refers to a peak in one of the mountain ranges around here. Our campsite is actually within the refuge, which is the 3rd largest in the lower 48 states. It encompasses over 800,000 acres, seven mountain ranges, and a variety of habitat for many species of plants and animals, including 6 kinds of rattlesnakes and 212 different kinds of birds. Earlier this week, we paid a visit to the visitor center in town, and left with the necessary maps and permits to go exploring. It's all very wild and rugged country, with absolutely no amenities--like water or road signs.The permit is good for 90 days, but you have to call in each time you use it so they can keep track of visitors. You call in and leave a message, stating your permit number, how many vehicles, and what your destination is. The recording states firmly that you are on your own--they don't want your name, license plate number, or when you plan to return because they aren't going to send someone out looking for you if you don't come back when you said you would. So there!
Tuesday, we set out for El Camino del Diablo (the Devil's Highway). The route was pioneered by a conquistador named Juan Bautista de Anza in 1774, and got its name after hundreds died on the route on the way to the California gold fields in 1848. From where we are, the route goes south into Mexico or north to Yuma, maybe farther. It bumps and grinds along the Mexican border, so we saw a lot of Border Patrol guys. Part of the road is very sandy, and they drag tires behind their trucks every day to smooth out the sand so they can see and track footprints. The "highway" crosses into Organ Pipe Natonal Monument, and at first it was very scenic. Lots of saguaro cacti, with "arms" going in all different directions. Once we left the monument, however, the road lost its charm. The bumps got bigger, most of the plants disappeared, and there was nothing but barren desert. This is apparently one of the areas where good Samaritan groups leave water jugs out for illegals crossing the desert because so many people die making the attempt. We turned around after about 20 miles hot and tired and dusty despite being in a car, with water, Diet Pepsi, and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. I can't imagine trying to do it on foot.
Yesterday, we took off in a different direction, in search of the petroglyphs at Charlie Bell Pass. It was a 17 mile ride, with good dirt road for more than half of it, and crummy for the rest. We dubbed one part Boulder Highway because, for about a mile, it was nothing but rocks. When we got to the end of the road, we parked the car and started hiking down into the valley on an old jeep road. We saw a snake about 2 feet long, not a rattler, sunning himself on the trail.The volunteer at the visitor center had said it was about a half mile to the windmill and petroglyphs, but it was probably twice that. The windmill was active, pumping water from a well into a big enclosed tank. There was an open, overflow tank that Ellie jumped into to cool off, and a spigot where we could fill up our water bottles. It was a hot day, and Steve and I both took off our T-shirts and got them sopping wet for the hike back up the hill. They were dry before we reached the top. The petroglyphs were inscribed on individual volcanic rocks scattered all over the hillside near the windmill and well. There must have been hundreds. Our guess is that there must have been a spring where the well is now, and the early peoples either came here to get water or settled here because of it.
Although we had brought drinks, we hadn't anticipated being gone so long, and didn't bring snacks. By the time we got back to Ajo, it was 3 p.m. and we hadn't eaten since breakfast. We pulled into the Dairy Queen andf chowed down on burgers, fries, and Oreo Blizzards. I'm usually not a big Dairy Queen fan, but either this was a really good one or we were too hungry to be picky--everything tasted great!
Today so far, we're just hanging out. Steve plans to get under the Samurai and secure some tin plate near the muffler that the the roads here have rattled loose. We may do a little excursion this afternoon to some old (not ancient) Indian settlement nearby. Tomorrow, we want to go to the Barry Goldwater Testing Grounds, which are (weirdly) also in the wildlife refuge. First we have to go the visitors center and watch a 25 minute orientation video ("when you see a plane, duck?") and get the password of the day to unlock the gate.
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